Ijen (Sept 1)

2:30 AM, time to wake up...snooze. 2:35 AM, time to wake up...snooze. 2:40 AM, ok we get the point.

We set off for Ijen after a nice strong cup of Java in the dark at just after 3 AM. Hari whisked down curved roads barely wide enough to fit our car and flanked on either side by tall grass and shrubs. We only hoped another car wasn't coming around the bend.

After a short drive though, we made it to Ijen where Hari paid the entrance fee and told us set off on foot up the mountain. Hari was going to catch a little more sleep as he already had been to Ijen.

At this point, it is important to point out that it was pitch black with no moon in sight, it was cold enough for us both to pull out our fleeces, and no other tourists were apparently crazy enough to try to catch the sunrise on the mountain. Tracy and I were though, so we set off with our little headlamps on. Hari told us it was only a three kilometer hike, but it felt more like five or six. As we hoofed it up the mountain, every once in awhile we would hear sounds coming from the bushes, and we would whirl around with our lights to check it out. We would pause every once in awhile to take a breath, but not to long as we were more comfortable on the move.

Soon enough though we neared the top and ran into our first pair of sulphur miners. They politely showed them the way and Tracy offered them some cookies/biscuits or durian cake from a bag as thanks. We continued on up the mountain and the sky began to brighten. We soon noticed we were surrounded by whispy clouds broken by a mountain top or two.

We eventually reached the top right at sunrise and the view was breathtaking. Peach hues colored the blue sky while below us a massive blue lake and the bright presence of sulphur was present. Hari had told us that this was a special place and he did not lie.

We began our one kilometer decent into the crater with the two workers from earlier who had caught up to us while we took pictures. They urged us to follow them down, but we quickly realized that it was hopeless trying to keep up with them as their feet were intimately familiar with every rock on the path. We took our time instead and stopped for pictures with various workers on the way down in exchange for a treat or two. Tracy purchased a turtle carved out of the raw sulphur, while I lifted one the baskets filled with sulphur. These baskets filled weigh about 100 kilos or 220 pounds. The fact that these men are able to complete two trips a day from the bottom of the mountion to the top and tehn back again, this time with a full loads, is remarkable.

We eventually made it to the bottom for a few pics, but didn't stay long as the fumes were a bit much. We quickly made it back to the top and enjoyed the views while the other tourists began to arrive and ask us questions about whether it was safe. Stopping for coffee and tea at the workers cabin area, we ran into the man who carved Tracy's turtle and we had a brief conversation. We then decided to run most of the way down mountain, but as we did so we noticed little sleeping burrows all along the trail. We found out later than some workers actually sleep along the trail side, which may explain some of the sounds we heard.

Once we got to the car, we were off again, and after lunch, we took a short ferry ride to Bali. We even had time to chat with a bunch of Aussie and Swedish surfers on the top deck. Hari would wind up driving us all the way to Ubud, but we'll tell you about that next time.

Cheers,
T&T

Sukamade to Coffee Plantation (Aug 30-31)

After an amazing evening under the stars, Tracy and I figured we were in for a let down, but boy were we wrong. As set off from Kalibaru, our local guide, Juno, and Hari gave us the option of stopping on the way out to check out a beautiful local beach called Green Bay, which only the locals really know about. We of course jumped at the chance. After a short hike (~3 kilometers), we arrived at the beach along with some local kids in tow who wanted to get some pictures with us, western tourist rockstars ;-). We were immediately struck with the beauty of this place. Perfect white sand and clear bluish-green waters with nice rock formations on either side. Better yet, it was as secluded as promised as there was no one else on the beach. Juno informed us that it was totally safe to swim as he brings his daughter to the beach, so we immediately grabbed our masks and snorkels and hit the water. (Note: Praise to Tracy for insisting that we bring these despite my objections to carrying more equipment). The first time in the water, we stayed to the right of the bay and didn't see many fish or coral formations. The second time was a completely different story however. We went left and after a few minutes large shelf like coral formations started to appear. First there were lime green ones, then mauve's, then more colors and formations started appearing. While we didn't see many large fish, we saw a massive variety of small reef fish. Several of the fish from Finding Nemo were even visible (Hello Scar!) much to Tracy's delight. We probably spent about forty-five minutes exploring and the second swim and never got bored. Unfortunately, we knew we had to set off again, so back in the Juno's ride it was, but in only a short time, we passed through the a small village where a traditional ceremony was taking place. What appeared to be the entire village was gathered together listing to music and watching a performance by two men in elaborate costumes in makeup. We found out that this was a circumcision celebration which typically takes place when a boy turns seven, and if you look closely at the photos you will notice the costumes match the theme. Anyway, as we approached with Hari in the hopes of quietly observing the ceremony, the villagers, especially the kids, started to take notice of us. Our rockstar status was in full affect, and soon, even the main performer noticed us and mentioned something on the microphone (I think about wanting to kiss Tracy). Before we could escape, some of the people invited us in and insisted that we have some food and enjoy the proceedings. Let me just say how wonderfully polite and hospitable the people of this town were. The food was delicious, and we had a wonderful time. Tracy and I only hope that we didn't disrupt their event too much and we wish each and every one of them the best. Soon the performance was wrapping up with the two men fighting it in a bloody mess. We were informed that they were both in a trance which allowed them to endure the fight. After that Tracy and I decided it was time to set off, so we jumped back in Juno's truck and headed for his house. From there we set off for our next hotel with Hari. The following morning (August 31st) we jumped back in the car with Hari and travelled to a coffee plantation near Mount Ijen. Once at the plantation, Hari gave us a tour of the facilities. Tracy got her usual amount of attention and there are some great pictures of her having a laugh with the women who sort the beans. Next, we headed for a hike to a nearby waterfall. On the way, we passed through the workers' village. As we did so, the local children came asking for photos. Hari had previously informed us that if you take photos of the kids they would expect some type of treat in return, so we were totally prepared. We snapped away and a mini-Halloween commenced. We soon made it to the waterfall, which we forced Hari to explore with us for some time. Finally, we headed back to our home stay for very nice meal surrounded by a bunch of European tourists and a small bob tailed cat, which Tracy of course adopted and fed all of our chicken bones too. We were soon off to sleep in preparation for an early rise the next morning.

Kalibaru to Sukamade Turtle Beach (29-30 August)

Awoke late and hazed in a fancy hotel with very high ceilings! We packed again and hit the road stopping for some basic supplies, as where we heading may be limited on drinkable water and other things.

We ventured into our first super market and were greeted by an array of similar items but with completely different wording I mistakenly took palm oil for a fancy fruit juice. Ahh, it looked so good. More pleasant and friendly people greeted us though. Even the security guard took great delight in helping me find the bathroom in the deep dark parts of the garage. We both searched for a book as we were without reading material after finishing and giving our only book Eat, Love, Pray (thanks Betty) to the guides at Rimba Lodge. Naturally, none were to be found, but we did find a translation book which we have enjoyed ever since. Our driver friend, Hari, joined forces with another driver/guide Juno who had a four wheel drive which certainly came in handy later on I might add. (Thanks to being a good old British car... i think) .

We were invited in for tea at Juno's house, and we shared our durian (smelly fruit) cake with our host who did not join us as appears to the practice in Java when hostings guests. Juno then drove us several hours into the heart of plantation country where we were shown how Gula (palm sugar) is collected and processed. We even got to taste the final product...yummy! Later still, we had a chance to taste raw Cacao and were completely lost on how they ended up with chocolate from this. A happy miracle though I must say!

With many smiles, waves and general well wishing, we arrive at the center of a small village where we eat lunch at a Warung (a little open air café) with traditional fare. Food that was so spicy it even made Tyler cry (I even have the photo to prove it). We leave set all a glow for the remaining part, though rubber, coconut plantations even through a river.

After the plantations, we poked out through the vegetation into a beautiful sandy beach with crystal blue water. Here we found a fishermens village with wonderful long slender boats with colorful stabilizers. Little crabs darting in and out of the sand creating little sand balls which kept Tyler amused with photographing this sea side ravine.

From here an uphill climb through the jungle with the occasional sightings of black monkeys. Juno and Hari hand picked coconut and the cacao that we later shared at the village.

After arriving at our simple little hotel, we took time to play with some baby sea turtles that had recently hatched (only a few days old). Then we walked to the beach where Hari made a deal with the locals for fresh fish and mussels which were spiced and cooked for our tea...tasty.

Perfectly timed with our last mouthful, we heard that a mother had landed on the beach. All excited at the concept of seeing a wild turtle we rush off to the beach following the ranger/protector/poacher. We walk through the unlit (best way) forest to an opening, all lights off and no sounds allowed. We are absolutely shocked as to how bright it is. The starry night with no moon was an unexpected treat. The Milky Way was so stunning against a velvety black sky and white crest of water crashing down creating melodic rhythms. We wait and wait, totally happy playing in the sand.

After awhile, our turtle decided that her first nest was not good enough and another site was preferable. We are allowed to quietly approach when she was giving birth though. Amazed, totally stoked to be in the presence of this awesome reptile in its full glory. A total of 110 little ping pong balls came into existance with only a 1% chance of survival, Sukemade rangers are trying to up this percentage to 10% by taking the eggs and hatching them safe from predators then later releasing them back into the sea. Our turtle was approximately 15-25 years old and has previously visited the beach in 2005. It usually takes a total of three hours for the turtle to do her business. On her return to the sea, we watched and follower her steps as see moved then stopped, and unfortunately, ended up slipping back into her first hole. Totally exhausted her huge flippers still powerfully moved the sand away and flick it up into the nearby ranger's face as she digs herself out again. With a silent blessing, she slips back into the crashing waves. We return to our simple bed wishing her to live to the grand old age of 100.

From Yogyakarta to Mount Bromo (Aug 27-28)

As we prepared to set off on Wednesday morning, we met our new driver, Hari, who would eventually see us all the way to Bali. That day however, we spent twelve hours in the car with him on the Road to Mount Bromo. The ride was a little like torture for Tracy as she was still suffering from itchy bug bites, digestive issues and her dread of spending long hours in cars.
It gave us more time to get to know Hari however, and for him to get to know us. He was initially surprised that we could handle the spicier Indonesian food, but it worked to our advantage later as Hari would start bringing us to more authentic restaurants and not Westernized food venues.

On the drive, we also quickly learned that the area east of Yogya is a never ending assortment of villages each with their own traffic issues. We eventually made it to our hotel for the night though. Unfortunately, it was definitely the worst of our accomodations so far. While having all the necessities, we found the room to be a bit cool and damp, which made falling asleep difficult. Particularly with Tracy continually laughing at my description of the bed as she had chosen to sleep on top of the covers in her clothes.

Luckily, we didn't have to stay there long, and we were up and off by 4 am. First stop, was the top Pananjakan Volcano, which offers the best views of the Mount Bromo area at sunset. It took about an hour of four wheeling through a dormant caldera area in the dark before our driver stopped and told us to walk the remainder of the way. As we climbed we were joined by tourists from all over the world, and we took a moment to stop at one of the shacks to have a ginger coffee (Tyler) and a ginger team (Tracy), which were excellent by the way.

Once our glasses were empty, we were at the top in only a few minutes. There we, and about 70 other people, enjoyed the incredible sunrise. It was a remarkable site to see that incredible volcanic landscape come to life. There were at least three other calderas visible from our vantage point.

Once the sun was up though, we headed back down and caught a ride to the base of Mount Bromo. We decided to pass on the horses and hiked up instead (about 45 minutes). Once at the top, we once again were treated to some magnificant views, and we decided to hike the entire rim as adviced by a Dutch guy we met earlier in the day. About half way around the rim, we were joined by an older German gentleman who was spending a year or so travelling the world like his son had advised. It had warmed up significantly by this point, and the hike turned into a good little morning workout. Before heading back down though, Tracy tossed some flowers she had purchased into the caldera as an offering to the Bromo Gods.

Once we returned to the hotel, we had a typical Indonesian breakfast (coffee/tea, friend rice, fried noodles, fried eggs and fresh fruit) before setting off. It would be another four hours or so before we made it to our next hotel, Kalibaru cottages, where we would enjoy a nice dinner and a few Bintang beers while bats flew around the open air hotel lobby.

Yogyakarta: Borobodur and Prambanan (Aug 25-26)

After a short drive from Semerang, we have arrived in Yogyakarta in luxury, totally spoilt rotten in a honeymoon room in the Hyatt hotel. Gosh do hotel points go far, but not without the guilt. An early morning swim under bridges and alongside waterfalls we awaken our bodies in preparation to feed our minds. Our first destination is Borobodur Temple, a Buddhists icon of power, beauty but most importantly an architectural book of teaching. We rise up the steps, one by one, circling in a clockwise pattern. The story unfolds as we ascend through the levels of Karma then into Reality and eventually arrive at Nivana. A mathematical equation that rounds perfectly into the magical number eight, the infinite symbol of life. Where a square equals a perfected state of stability and diamonds refer to the instability of life. We descend into previously friendly people whom wished to give you there name ‘Remo, Iyen,’ they shout ‘remember me’, and ‘later, later’. We smile and pass by, but now they swarm around us with their simple trinkets of cards and stamps, even a few sculptures are forced on us. We take the time to review like good fellows, but the prices areso high we try to walk away. Still they follow. We give in and get a welcomed daylight robbery - a hard lesson learnt at the gates of hell.
Three kilometers away, we have the time to ponder our bargaining defeat under a Bodhi tree. What a glorious tree! I just love this tree with its long dangling vines, within arms reach wishing to be touched, caressed even swung through. There a shared a few moments whilst Tyler enjoyed in Rock star moment with the local children in the nearby Temple. I sat until a smile rose to my cheeks – very memorable.

Further traveling is needed to reach our final destination, the Prambanan temple complex (we did have a quick stop of at the Palace and learnt all about the Sultan and his 40 wives Indeed a very busy man!). Prambanan temple complex was a Hindu temple with feminine lines as compared to the solid mass of the Borobodur. A temple so beautiful view under the setting sky. We quietly praise the moment completely in awe of such an ancient culture who decided to bless us with such magnificent architecture. Several shines have been restored for the main gods and even a cow (they have gods for everything). Each shrine layered with symbolic teachings of the Buddha’s seated pose either in teaching, meditation or giving. A connection between Buddhism and Hinduism. Pinnacles with lotus flowers and the sacred bowl reaching high to a centered point of a multi-coloured volcanic rock. Hands selected and dragged by elephant the tops showing connections made by zigzagging channels opposite the pervious dove joints. An unplaced stone is visible that fell from the recent earthquake, an the temples are surrounded by a grave yard of felled rock patiently waiting to be reincarnated.

Kalimantan, Ancis and the Oranghutans (Aug 22-25)

Wow! Where do I begin. Three days, two leaches and fifty mosquito bites later (Tracy had 47 of them), we emerge from the jungles of Tanjung Puting National Park in southern Kalimantan (Borneo). We had a fantastic time throughout, but one of the highlights was definitely meeting Ancis, our new friend and guide. Ancis is twenty six year old young man from Kumai who despite a very hard life always finds a way to keep smiling. (Check out the video of him in my hat singing a country song). He met us at the airport and took us to our boat in Kumai. The boat was a small vessel painted blue, green and white with two levels. We stayed on the upper level and the crew of three generally stayed below. Within minutes of meeting the captain and crew, we were off up river to the park. The river is naturally black, red and glassy like tea, but due to mining upstream it is now a murky brown. Both sides are lined with banana leaf trees and various other vegetation. At the end of the first day, we arrived at Rimba lodge. A beautiful little place in the jungle on the bank of the river across from the park. The staff was great, and after dinner each night, we would hang out with them, the other tourists (only a few) and the other guides and play chess and listen to music. On day two, we went to Camp Leaky and were absolutely surrounded by oranghutans. We also saw gibbons and makaks. The oranghutans were definitely the best though. During the feeding, there were fourteen on all sides and above us. It was amazing to see the big males move through the trees with such grace. The next couple of days we visited a couple of other oranghutan stations, a reforesting station where we each planted a tree and a the local village. The village was completely isolated, but very pretty with community rice fields on one side and a little waterway running through the middle.

Jakarta (Aug 18-21)

Well after a crazy week trying to pack up our lives and get out of LA and about 24 hours of travelling, Tracy and I finally made it to Jakarta. Immediately upon leaving the airport, I was struck by the fact that Jakarta is exactly like what I had read, a juxtoposition of rich and poor. There are definitely way more poor though. That said, everyone has been extremely friendly.

Tracy and I spent the first day just relaxing in the hotel, getting over jet lag and sampling some indonesian food. Yesterday however, we took a tour through some more rural areas south of the city. We visited a botanical garden, a tea plantation and a zoo featuring many indonesian animals. Tracy and I even got a couple of pics with some of the animals (check out the slide show).

It was a really fun day despite the fact that both us, particularly me, are dealing with some digestive issues (traveller's tummy). Next up Kalimantan (Borneo).