Port Douglas and Cairns (Sept 21-24)

After a short flight, we landed at Cairns airport mid-morning, and we quickly set about acquiring transportation. We soon had a compact little car that we set off to Port Douglaas in. Thankfully, the roads weren't to crowded which gave me a chance to get reacquainted with a manual transmission and, more importantly, get use to driving on the wrong side of the road, sorry in-laws ;-). Soon enough though we found ourself driving along the coast through a beautiful rainforest.

After checking into our hotel in Port Douglas, we headed into to town to grab a bite. Port Douglas turned out to be a beautiful little town with many nice restaurants and shops, and on this particular day, the markets were on. Tracy decided a little shopping was in order, and she found her heart's desire in the first stall we encountered. A local man named Armin was selling these carved coconuts, which Tracy decided would be a great way to mark our fifth anniversary (we were still looking for some wood artwork we both liked). Undissuaded by the price or my reservations, Tracy quickly acquired the dearest carving the man was willing to part with. Upon our return to our hotel, we enjoyed a nice jog on the beach before heading back into town for dinner. By the time we were ready to call it a night, we both agreed Port Douglas was a fantastic town and definitely raised our opinion of Australia.

The next morning we headed straight for Daintree National Park, the heart of the rainforest here. We spent some time in the local discovery center which had a ton of platforms and walkways that allowed us to explore the various levels. We also explored up to Cape Tribulation, so named by Captain Cook. This area was truly beautiful, and we really wished we had more time to spend here. We almost went back the following day, but after deciding some relaxation was in order instead, we spent most of the day by the pool enjoying boat drinks.

We awoke early the next morning to check out of our hotel and get ready for our trip to the great barrier reef. The shuttle picked us up and we were on our boat, the Poseidon, by 9 am. While checking out the upper deck on the way out to the reef, we saw a whale breaching in the distance. Tracy and I, much to our delight, were grouped with the more experienced divers, and after a short refresher, we started throwing on our gear. During our first dive, we saw a variety of different fish and sea cucumbers, but the highlight was definitely the leopard shark we found lying on the bottom. He was easily six feet. Unfortunately, Tracy got a bloody nose on the first dive, which left her freaked out a bit. Our dive master instructed us that she was fine however, and she was able to continue the day with no troubles. On the second dive, we saw a white tip shark and a giant clam. Finally, we ran into a sea turtle and a blue spotted sting ray.

Upon returning to Port Douglas, we had to set off to Cairns where we got a room on the esplanade, watched some massive bats flying around (they are in every town here) and enjoyed a kebob before settling into bed.

Darwin (Sept 18 - 21)

What a serious slap in the face with that once tasty fish! We landed straight back down into reality and it hurt...real bad.
After arriving at 1am in the morning and searching for a place to stay, which did not take long since this is backpacker heaven apparently and the ONLY places you can stay are youth hostels, we shared the delights of bunk beds with strangers (Oh Joy!) in the Youth Shack, a name that also added to the insult. Luckily upon the rising sun, we felt somewhat accepted in this young environment. It did not take long to hear the moans and groans of the fellow travellers and locals, which is something you rarely heard from our Indonesian friends. This was a shock to all our senses after being luckily enough to travel through the beautiful and, perhaps more importantly, cheap country of Indonesia where the people genuinely welcomed you with friendly attitudes into their homes and your money went a long, long way. To land in this loud and somewhat unattractive hole was a disappointment to say the least.
Being so close to Indonesian I was hoping to locate a few of the clove ciggies I enjoyed so much, but oh no, my smoking days are over. This may not be helping my mood either, but I am beginning to recognise several names, and I find myself in Woolworth's which turns out to be an Australian supermarket (since when?) but to my delight I find Hobnobs. :-)
Life has changed, and we totally miss Indonesia and all that it has to offer from the exotic smells, the friendly people and the highly diverse landscape. It was not all that bad though as Tyler and I shared fresh oysters with chili sauce whilst sat a beach watching the sunset over the water thinking of our new friends who will have a hour or so wait till they too can eat. The locals crowd around whilst an aboriginal woman danced to a revved up dance music accompanied with the didgeridoo at the local night market.
We wanted to get out of Darwin as there was bugger all for us to do in town except drink. Not that that's bad, but definitely not healthy. For that reason, we signed up for a tour the next day and realised that we should have done this much earlier. We were let down upon finding out that Kakadu National Park, which we really wished to see, was over 200 km away. With no camping gear and not enough time or money in our budget, this was an issue, so we went to the closer Litchfield National Park which the locals apparently prefer.
On the way, we stopped at a jumping crocodile cruise where we saw the beasts in action. A thought that never left my mind whilst we swam in the waterfall pools and lagoons later in the day where they also occasionally found. We where assured that the water was to shallow for crocs this time of year and the authorities had cleared the area. It still made my heart skip until I noticed the cute little stone frogs in the rock crevasses. In total, we went to three different swimming spots and learned why they were the locals' favorite...they can bring there beer. The whole family can enjoy a dip in the running water with a cold one. Things have definitely changed.
Large grazing mammals are not typical but instead that have a very accomplished grassing eating bug about 3mm long that does a very good job, the termite. Different types for different jobs. The grass cutter, the didgeridoo creator and the directional magnetic ones all with their own special architectures designed to meet their special air conditioning needs.
So to wrap it up in a few words on Darwin...don't unless you are booking tours.

Kuta (Sept 15 - 17)

It is a good job that I am not left to my own devices. I would not have left.
We were only in Kuta a few hours before I mistakenly communicated that I need my hair braided when all I really wished was to purchase a weaving needle for my hair. A couple of young girls shortly came to our room to braid my hair - something that was really not needed because if you have not realised my hair is in a natural style that has been well received by all the cultures we have met. I have dreadlocks. Its Perfect - to travel, to unify people and to show fellow love for the environment. A language barrier prevented smooth communication, so body language took precedence.
I left Tyler at the hotel and piled on a bike with the two girls ( yep on one bike). Whizzing along, through back alleys and under carparks. I have not the foggiest where the hell I was when I got off, but I was taken straight into a shop with others, all wishing to fix my hair. After a few minutes trying to explain that I didn't need my hair braiding. I had forgoton that my hair was tied up! So I let it down so show, I think finally got through. So back on the bike it was to another shop; this time a tattoo place. Oh my goodness, no tattoo for me thanks! After the same arm flapping and face pulling trying to explain myself, a phone call later two young rastas pop there heads round the door... smiling, and to my delight, they spoke broken English. Yehh!
They played with my hair and decided it needed their touch. How could I say no? For barely any money, I got treated not to the studio (too expensive), but to their home where I spent the next enjoyable hours making friends with all the locals who swung by. Somehow I had managed to fall into the home of the most famous rasta in town - Barong! I was even fortunate enough to meet the artist of the music that I loved in Gili Trawanga. His name is Richard. (I have CD to share but who like to give something back if I do share.)
Many hours we sat on the tiled porch sharing stories and laughter. I felt very comfortable with these not so strange strangers. A wonderfully tranquil place in the very busy town of Kuta. Lenny and I shared yoga :-). Edwin had exceptional English. Barong was such a friendly magnet that anyone in his company reflected his calm friendly warmth. We even knew the same people from the island. It was like a mini reunion. So fortunate for me.
Barong took me for a hair raising spin thought town before dropping back at the hotel where we saw Tyler at the local Internet cafe. Both of us a little ill, we managed to eat a little before hitting the sack to leave the next day. I must point out, my head hurt from all the pulling. I am also missing my semi soft dreads. The new improved not to be budged dreads are growing on me, and my headache is subsiding!
I wanted Tyler to meet my new friends, so the following day before we headed out, we went round and hung out. Of course, we were welcomed once again. I was sad to leave, but we had to get to the airport. Not without a quick photo of our new family. Fun and memorable times for sure!

Gili Trawangan (Sept 10-15)

Splish, splash and totally soaking wet, I watched the water rising in the canoe sized fishing boat fitted with no safety equipment but much needed stabilizers which we were truly thankful for. Sand art in the bottom of the boat took my mind off the constant face slapping salty sea which kept stinging my face.

Almost four exhilarating hours later, we are dropped on the beach in Gili Trawangan. We set up post near in a near by bar and surveyed our surroundings. We quickly realized that we had landed on a party island on the backpackers circuit. The main strip consisted of a row restaurants and bars with mostly reggae music blaring to give the island a distinctly carribean feel.

After a short horse drawn taxi ride and many stops, we ended up a good distance from the harbor on the quiet northern point of the island at a little place called Windy Hotel & Cafe. It turned out to be a true blessing and a place that became like a family home over the next five days.

Upon arrival, we met Ibi, a fun loving, mult-talented young man from Lombok who became our primary host and good friend during our stay. He even treated us to a fantastic private fire dancing display our first night on the island.

A evening later, we headed to the center of the main strip for dinner where we joined forces with fellow Scots and Irish who were true to form and drank us under the table. The following days, we ended up fasting. One due to Tyler being severly ill, and two, out of my respect for our hosts who in the middle of Ramadan.

After Tyler headed to bed early, I found myself being pampered by four indonesians who liked to think of themselves as my four husbands. A novelty I enjoyed, but thankful that I only had one.

I befriended Ali especially who turned out to share my passion for yoga and knew how to fix my dreads which were beginning to come undone. During one snorkling adventure with him, were blessed with seeing, not just one, but two soaring olive Ridley sea turtles. Truly lucky.

Upon a later search, Tyler, Ibi and I became frighteningly close to a black and white sea snake which came up for air in a dramatic winding display. That said, we saw a truly amazing, technicoloured variety of fish and clams. Hours in the sea left our backs nice and toasty, our fronts still yet to be sunkissed...possible option for Oz.

Our days and evenings were spent listening to music, either locals play guitar or Tyler's ipod, whilst our new family tried to teach us how to fire dance. A spectacular deja vu experience, which made us dizzy with delight.

Every day our morning greetings with Hari, the two year old, joined us together. The enlightened, usually naked, little boy touched our hearts. On one occassion, he had two bills, amounting to 200,000 rupiah, he pondered over what to purchased. Then he decided to spin on the spot and decided to give me one saying "I am one, and you are one. We are all one." As his father translated, tears welled in my eyes, and I returned the bill to his father saying, "Yes, we are all one." Laughing at our bond being sealed.

Our final day of fasting, we were invited by the family and workers to join them for an Indo style dinner. We shared stories and smoked the night away.

My charity upon departing nearly flipped Tyler's lid, but I hope our gifts of money, knowledge, paints and books will used to the fullest. We are so sad to leave our family: Usman, Anik, Hari, Ibi, Jakof, Rama, Surya and Ali. We wish them all the best always!

Ahmed (Sept 5-10)

After the hustle and bustle of Ubud, Tracy and I decided to head for the quiet fishing village of Ahmed on the eastern end of Bali. We acquired a driver with relative ease since everyone in Bali knows someone, and of course, they get their share. After a bit of haggling and making sure we could stop at Besakih, we set off. Unfortunately, our driver never stopped complaining how long the drive was. We took this slight annoyance as a sign that we did a good job negotiating.

Fortunately, it wasn't too long before we reached our first destination, Besakih. This is also known as the mother temple as it is the largest and most important temple in Bali. A large complex with many temples open to the public and many more for Balinese families only. Upon arrival and after more haggling, we acquired a guide and dawned the required sarongs and sashes. Our guide, Ketut, was a very nice gentleman who educated us on the history of the complex and arranged for us to make a traditional offering and prayer.

Unfortunately, as we left Besakih, the local police extracted a bribe from our driver in exchange for returning his license which the took from him during our entry without explanation. The driver paid it, but refused to give us details on the amount. It appears not everything is perfect in Bali.

After another couple of hours of driving, we finally made it to our destination, Ahmed. We got dropped at Good Karma Bungalows based on the advice of an Aussie we met and Ubud. It was a fantastic place. Our bungalow was only a few steps from the ocean, had a hammock which we took full advantage of, and was as quiet as promised. The other great thing about this place was the snorkeling, great coral and tons of fishes.

Over the next few days, we relaxed. We continued snorkeling in front of our place, but we also got a motorbike and explored the coast more. We snorkeled a small Japanese shipwreck and a larger WWII wreck, the US Liberty, where Tracy found the fish a little too aggressive. (Note: It is important to know that the first time Tracy went snorkeling she was bit while trying to feed the fish, and hence our early exit from the Liberty wreck site once Tracy had a pack of fish following here). We also took time to grab a little food at as many places as we could and talk with the locals. At this great restaurant called Sails, we met this very nice lady Anik chatted with us all through dinner.

After five nights in Ahmed, the time finally came to leave, so we arranged for a small fishing boat to take us directly to our next destination, Gilli Trawangan, but we will save the story of our crossing for our next entry.

Cheers Everyone!

Bali: Ubud Area (Sept 1-5)

We believe there are many beautiful places in the world, but after only a few days, we also believe Bali, and particularly the area of Ubud, stand out. While things have started to finally slow down for Tracy and I, we have still had time to see beautiful countryside rice patties, tour stunning mountain lake side temples, dine on fantastic cuisine (even if it is a little less spicy than Javanese food), try Kung Fu Yoga (yeah that is right Paul), get lost in a maze in the local botanical gardens, relax for a few hours in a spa, do some shopping, feed some monkies and take in a traditional Kecak Fire dance (Love, you would have enjoyed it). This place really is fantastic, and things just seem to be easy here, especially once you learn how to negotiate. The great service combined with the current exchange rate (~9100 Indonesian Rupiahs to 1 US Dollar) makes everyone feel like a millionare. We've been sleeping late, enjoying long lunches and jetting around Ubud on our motorbike ($5/day...Wow!). We could write more, but we'll let the pictures do more of the talking this time.

We are off for Ahmed soon, a sleeping fishing village on the northeast shore where we can hang on the beach and enjoy some fantastic diving and snorkeling. Lombok is up after than, and as it is even more remote, we may not be writing for awhile.

Pura Vida,
Tyler & Tracy

Ijen (Sept 1)

2:30 AM, time to wake up...snooze. 2:35 AM, time to wake up...snooze. 2:40 AM, ok we get the point.

We set off for Ijen after a nice strong cup of Java in the dark at just after 3 AM. Hari whisked down curved roads barely wide enough to fit our car and flanked on either side by tall grass and shrubs. We only hoped another car wasn't coming around the bend.

After a short drive though, we made it to Ijen where Hari paid the entrance fee and told us set off on foot up the mountain. Hari was going to catch a little more sleep as he already had been to Ijen.

At this point, it is important to point out that it was pitch black with no moon in sight, it was cold enough for us both to pull out our fleeces, and no other tourists were apparently crazy enough to try to catch the sunrise on the mountain. Tracy and I were though, so we set off with our little headlamps on. Hari told us it was only a three kilometer hike, but it felt more like five or six. As we hoofed it up the mountain, every once in awhile we would hear sounds coming from the bushes, and we would whirl around with our lights to check it out. We would pause every once in awhile to take a breath, but not to long as we were more comfortable on the move.

Soon enough though we neared the top and ran into our first pair of sulphur miners. They politely showed them the way and Tracy offered them some cookies/biscuits or durian cake from a bag as thanks. We continued on up the mountain and the sky began to brighten. We soon noticed we were surrounded by whispy clouds broken by a mountain top or two.

We eventually reached the top right at sunrise and the view was breathtaking. Peach hues colored the blue sky while below us a massive blue lake and the bright presence of sulphur was present. Hari had told us that this was a special place and he did not lie.

We began our one kilometer decent into the crater with the two workers from earlier who had caught up to us while we took pictures. They urged us to follow them down, but we quickly realized that it was hopeless trying to keep up with them as their feet were intimately familiar with every rock on the path. We took our time instead and stopped for pictures with various workers on the way down in exchange for a treat or two. Tracy purchased a turtle carved out of the raw sulphur, while I lifted one the baskets filled with sulphur. These baskets filled weigh about 100 kilos or 220 pounds. The fact that these men are able to complete two trips a day from the bottom of the mountion to the top and tehn back again, this time with a full loads, is remarkable.

We eventually made it to the bottom for a few pics, but didn't stay long as the fumes were a bit much. We quickly made it back to the top and enjoyed the views while the other tourists began to arrive and ask us questions about whether it was safe. Stopping for coffee and tea at the workers cabin area, we ran into the man who carved Tracy's turtle and we had a brief conversation. We then decided to run most of the way down mountain, but as we did so we noticed little sleeping burrows all along the trail. We found out later than some workers actually sleep along the trail side, which may explain some of the sounds we heard.

Once we got to the car, we were off again, and after lunch, we took a short ferry ride to Bali. We even had time to chat with a bunch of Aussie and Swedish surfers on the top deck. Hari would wind up driving us all the way to Ubud, but we'll tell you about that next time.

Cheers,
T&T

Sukamade to Coffee Plantation (Aug 30-31)

After an amazing evening under the stars, Tracy and I figured we were in for a let down, but boy were we wrong. As set off from Kalibaru, our local guide, Juno, and Hari gave us the option of stopping on the way out to check out a beautiful local beach called Green Bay, which only the locals really know about. We of course jumped at the chance. After a short hike (~3 kilometers), we arrived at the beach along with some local kids in tow who wanted to get some pictures with us, western tourist rockstars ;-). We were immediately struck with the beauty of this place. Perfect white sand and clear bluish-green waters with nice rock formations on either side. Better yet, it was as secluded as promised as there was no one else on the beach. Juno informed us that it was totally safe to swim as he brings his daughter to the beach, so we immediately grabbed our masks and snorkels and hit the water. (Note: Praise to Tracy for insisting that we bring these despite my objections to carrying more equipment). The first time in the water, we stayed to the right of the bay and didn't see many fish or coral formations. The second time was a completely different story however. We went left and after a few minutes large shelf like coral formations started to appear. First there were lime green ones, then mauve's, then more colors and formations started appearing. While we didn't see many large fish, we saw a massive variety of small reef fish. Several of the fish from Finding Nemo were even visible (Hello Scar!) much to Tracy's delight. We probably spent about forty-five minutes exploring and the second swim and never got bored. Unfortunately, we knew we had to set off again, so back in the Juno's ride it was, but in only a short time, we passed through the a small village where a traditional ceremony was taking place. What appeared to be the entire village was gathered together listing to music and watching a performance by two men in elaborate costumes in makeup. We found out that this was a circumcision celebration which typically takes place when a boy turns seven, and if you look closely at the photos you will notice the costumes match the theme. Anyway, as we approached with Hari in the hopes of quietly observing the ceremony, the villagers, especially the kids, started to take notice of us. Our rockstar status was in full affect, and soon, even the main performer noticed us and mentioned something on the microphone (I think about wanting to kiss Tracy). Before we could escape, some of the people invited us in and insisted that we have some food and enjoy the proceedings. Let me just say how wonderfully polite and hospitable the people of this town were. The food was delicious, and we had a wonderful time. Tracy and I only hope that we didn't disrupt their event too much and we wish each and every one of them the best. Soon the performance was wrapping up with the two men fighting it in a bloody mess. We were informed that they were both in a trance which allowed them to endure the fight. After that Tracy and I decided it was time to set off, so we jumped back in Juno's truck and headed for his house. From there we set off for our next hotel with Hari. The following morning (August 31st) we jumped back in the car with Hari and travelled to a coffee plantation near Mount Ijen. Once at the plantation, Hari gave us a tour of the facilities. Tracy got her usual amount of attention and there are some great pictures of her having a laugh with the women who sort the beans. Next, we headed for a hike to a nearby waterfall. On the way, we passed through the workers' village. As we did so, the local children came asking for photos. Hari had previously informed us that if you take photos of the kids they would expect some type of treat in return, so we were totally prepared. We snapped away and a mini-Halloween commenced. We soon made it to the waterfall, which we forced Hari to explore with us for some time. Finally, we headed back to our home stay for very nice meal surrounded by a bunch of European tourists and a small bob tailed cat, which Tracy of course adopted and fed all of our chicken bones too. We were soon off to sleep in preparation for an early rise the next morning.

Kalibaru to Sukamade Turtle Beach (29-30 August)

Awoke late and hazed in a fancy hotel with very high ceilings! We packed again and hit the road stopping for some basic supplies, as where we heading may be limited on drinkable water and other things.

We ventured into our first super market and were greeted by an array of similar items but with completely different wording I mistakenly took palm oil for a fancy fruit juice. Ahh, it looked so good. More pleasant and friendly people greeted us though. Even the security guard took great delight in helping me find the bathroom in the deep dark parts of the garage. We both searched for a book as we were without reading material after finishing and giving our only book Eat, Love, Pray (thanks Betty) to the guides at Rimba Lodge. Naturally, none were to be found, but we did find a translation book which we have enjoyed ever since. Our driver friend, Hari, joined forces with another driver/guide Juno who had a four wheel drive which certainly came in handy later on I might add. (Thanks to being a good old British car... i think) .

We were invited in for tea at Juno's house, and we shared our durian (smelly fruit) cake with our host who did not join us as appears to the practice in Java when hostings guests. Juno then drove us several hours into the heart of plantation country where we were shown how Gula (palm sugar) is collected and processed. We even got to taste the final product...yummy! Later still, we had a chance to taste raw Cacao and were completely lost on how they ended up with chocolate from this. A happy miracle though I must say!

With many smiles, waves and general well wishing, we arrive at the center of a small village where we eat lunch at a Warung (a little open air café) with traditional fare. Food that was so spicy it even made Tyler cry (I even have the photo to prove it). We leave set all a glow for the remaining part, though rubber, coconut plantations even through a river.

After the plantations, we poked out through the vegetation into a beautiful sandy beach with crystal blue water. Here we found a fishermens village with wonderful long slender boats with colorful stabilizers. Little crabs darting in and out of the sand creating little sand balls which kept Tyler amused with photographing this sea side ravine.

From here an uphill climb through the jungle with the occasional sightings of black monkeys. Juno and Hari hand picked coconut and the cacao that we later shared at the village.

After arriving at our simple little hotel, we took time to play with some baby sea turtles that had recently hatched (only a few days old). Then we walked to the beach where Hari made a deal with the locals for fresh fish and mussels which were spiced and cooked for our tea...tasty.

Perfectly timed with our last mouthful, we heard that a mother had landed on the beach. All excited at the concept of seeing a wild turtle we rush off to the beach following the ranger/protector/poacher. We walk through the unlit (best way) forest to an opening, all lights off and no sounds allowed. We are absolutely shocked as to how bright it is. The starry night with no moon was an unexpected treat. The Milky Way was so stunning against a velvety black sky and white crest of water crashing down creating melodic rhythms. We wait and wait, totally happy playing in the sand.

After awhile, our turtle decided that her first nest was not good enough and another site was preferable. We are allowed to quietly approach when she was giving birth though. Amazed, totally stoked to be in the presence of this awesome reptile in its full glory. A total of 110 little ping pong balls came into existance with only a 1% chance of survival, Sukemade rangers are trying to up this percentage to 10% by taking the eggs and hatching them safe from predators then later releasing them back into the sea. Our turtle was approximately 15-25 years old and has previously visited the beach in 2005. It usually takes a total of three hours for the turtle to do her business. On her return to the sea, we watched and follower her steps as see moved then stopped, and unfortunately, ended up slipping back into her first hole. Totally exhausted her huge flippers still powerfully moved the sand away and flick it up into the nearby ranger's face as she digs herself out again. With a silent blessing, she slips back into the crashing waves. We return to our simple bed wishing her to live to the grand old age of 100.

From Yogyakarta to Mount Bromo (Aug 27-28)

As we prepared to set off on Wednesday morning, we met our new driver, Hari, who would eventually see us all the way to Bali. That day however, we spent twelve hours in the car with him on the Road to Mount Bromo. The ride was a little like torture for Tracy as she was still suffering from itchy bug bites, digestive issues and her dread of spending long hours in cars.
It gave us more time to get to know Hari however, and for him to get to know us. He was initially surprised that we could handle the spicier Indonesian food, but it worked to our advantage later as Hari would start bringing us to more authentic restaurants and not Westernized food venues.

On the drive, we also quickly learned that the area east of Yogya is a never ending assortment of villages each with their own traffic issues. We eventually made it to our hotel for the night though. Unfortunately, it was definitely the worst of our accomodations so far. While having all the necessities, we found the room to be a bit cool and damp, which made falling asleep difficult. Particularly with Tracy continually laughing at my description of the bed as she had chosen to sleep on top of the covers in her clothes.

Luckily, we didn't have to stay there long, and we were up and off by 4 am. First stop, was the top Pananjakan Volcano, which offers the best views of the Mount Bromo area at sunset. It took about an hour of four wheeling through a dormant caldera area in the dark before our driver stopped and told us to walk the remainder of the way. As we climbed we were joined by tourists from all over the world, and we took a moment to stop at one of the shacks to have a ginger coffee (Tyler) and a ginger team (Tracy), which were excellent by the way.

Once our glasses were empty, we were at the top in only a few minutes. There we, and about 70 other people, enjoyed the incredible sunrise. It was a remarkable site to see that incredible volcanic landscape come to life. There were at least three other calderas visible from our vantage point.

Once the sun was up though, we headed back down and caught a ride to the base of Mount Bromo. We decided to pass on the horses and hiked up instead (about 45 minutes). Once at the top, we once again were treated to some magnificant views, and we decided to hike the entire rim as adviced by a Dutch guy we met earlier in the day. About half way around the rim, we were joined by an older German gentleman who was spending a year or so travelling the world like his son had advised. It had warmed up significantly by this point, and the hike turned into a good little morning workout. Before heading back down though, Tracy tossed some flowers she had purchased into the caldera as an offering to the Bromo Gods.

Once we returned to the hotel, we had a typical Indonesian breakfast (coffee/tea, friend rice, fried noodles, fried eggs and fresh fruit) before setting off. It would be another four hours or so before we made it to our next hotel, Kalibaru cottages, where we would enjoy a nice dinner and a few Bintang beers while bats flew around the open air hotel lobby.

Yogyakarta: Borobodur and Prambanan (Aug 25-26)

After a short drive from Semerang, we have arrived in Yogyakarta in luxury, totally spoilt rotten in a honeymoon room in the Hyatt hotel. Gosh do hotel points go far, but not without the guilt. An early morning swim under bridges and alongside waterfalls we awaken our bodies in preparation to feed our minds. Our first destination is Borobodur Temple, a Buddhists icon of power, beauty but most importantly an architectural book of teaching. We rise up the steps, one by one, circling in a clockwise pattern. The story unfolds as we ascend through the levels of Karma then into Reality and eventually arrive at Nivana. A mathematical equation that rounds perfectly into the magical number eight, the infinite symbol of life. Where a square equals a perfected state of stability and diamonds refer to the instability of life. We descend into previously friendly people whom wished to give you there name ‘Remo, Iyen,’ they shout ‘remember me’, and ‘later, later’. We smile and pass by, but now they swarm around us with their simple trinkets of cards and stamps, even a few sculptures are forced on us. We take the time to review like good fellows, but the prices areso high we try to walk away. Still they follow. We give in and get a welcomed daylight robbery - a hard lesson learnt at the gates of hell.
Three kilometers away, we have the time to ponder our bargaining defeat under a Bodhi tree. What a glorious tree! I just love this tree with its long dangling vines, within arms reach wishing to be touched, caressed even swung through. There a shared a few moments whilst Tyler enjoyed in Rock star moment with the local children in the nearby Temple. I sat until a smile rose to my cheeks – very memorable.

Further traveling is needed to reach our final destination, the Prambanan temple complex (we did have a quick stop of at the Palace and learnt all about the Sultan and his 40 wives Indeed a very busy man!). Prambanan temple complex was a Hindu temple with feminine lines as compared to the solid mass of the Borobodur. A temple so beautiful view under the setting sky. We quietly praise the moment completely in awe of such an ancient culture who decided to bless us with such magnificent architecture. Several shines have been restored for the main gods and even a cow (they have gods for everything). Each shrine layered with symbolic teachings of the Buddha’s seated pose either in teaching, meditation or giving. A connection between Buddhism and Hinduism. Pinnacles with lotus flowers and the sacred bowl reaching high to a centered point of a multi-coloured volcanic rock. Hands selected and dragged by elephant the tops showing connections made by zigzagging channels opposite the pervious dove joints. An unplaced stone is visible that fell from the recent earthquake, an the temples are surrounded by a grave yard of felled rock patiently waiting to be reincarnated.