Kalibaru to Sukamade Turtle Beach (29-30 August)

Awoke late and hazed in a fancy hotel with very high ceilings! We packed again and hit the road stopping for some basic supplies, as where we heading may be limited on drinkable water and other things.

We ventured into our first super market and were greeted by an array of similar items but with completely different wording I mistakenly took palm oil for a fancy fruit juice. Ahh, it looked so good. More pleasant and friendly people greeted us though. Even the security guard took great delight in helping me find the bathroom in the deep dark parts of the garage. We both searched for a book as we were without reading material after finishing and giving our only book Eat, Love, Pray (thanks Betty) to the guides at Rimba Lodge. Naturally, none were to be found, but we did find a translation book which we have enjoyed ever since. Our driver friend, Hari, joined forces with another driver/guide Juno who had a four wheel drive which certainly came in handy later on I might add. (Thanks to being a good old British car... i think) .

We were invited in for tea at Juno's house, and we shared our durian (smelly fruit) cake with our host who did not join us as appears to the practice in Java when hostings guests. Juno then drove us several hours into the heart of plantation country where we were shown how Gula (palm sugar) is collected and processed. We even got to taste the final product...yummy! Later still, we had a chance to taste raw Cacao and were completely lost on how they ended up with chocolate from this. A happy miracle though I must say!

With many smiles, waves and general well wishing, we arrive at the center of a small village where we eat lunch at a Warung (a little open air café) with traditional fare. Food that was so spicy it even made Tyler cry (I even have the photo to prove it). We leave set all a glow for the remaining part, though rubber, coconut plantations even through a river.

After the plantations, we poked out through the vegetation into a beautiful sandy beach with crystal blue water. Here we found a fishermens village with wonderful long slender boats with colorful stabilizers. Little crabs darting in and out of the sand creating little sand balls which kept Tyler amused with photographing this sea side ravine.

From here an uphill climb through the jungle with the occasional sightings of black monkeys. Juno and Hari hand picked coconut and the cacao that we later shared at the village.

After arriving at our simple little hotel, we took time to play with some baby sea turtles that had recently hatched (only a few days old). Then we walked to the beach where Hari made a deal with the locals for fresh fish and mussels which were spiced and cooked for our tea...tasty.

Perfectly timed with our last mouthful, we heard that a mother had landed on the beach. All excited at the concept of seeing a wild turtle we rush off to the beach following the ranger/protector/poacher. We walk through the unlit (best way) forest to an opening, all lights off and no sounds allowed. We are absolutely shocked as to how bright it is. The starry night with no moon was an unexpected treat. The Milky Way was so stunning against a velvety black sky and white crest of water crashing down creating melodic rhythms. We wait and wait, totally happy playing in the sand.

After awhile, our turtle decided that her first nest was not good enough and another site was preferable. We are allowed to quietly approach when she was giving birth though. Amazed, totally stoked to be in the presence of this awesome reptile in its full glory. A total of 110 little ping pong balls came into existance with only a 1% chance of survival, Sukemade rangers are trying to up this percentage to 10% by taking the eggs and hatching them safe from predators then later releasing them back into the sea. Our turtle was approximately 15-25 years old and has previously visited the beach in 2005. It usually takes a total of three hours for the turtle to do her business. On her return to the sea, we watched and follower her steps as see moved then stopped, and unfortunately, ended up slipping back into her first hole. Totally exhausted her huge flippers still powerfully moved the sand away and flick it up into the nearby ranger's face as she digs herself out again. With a silent blessing, she slips back into the crashing waves. We return to our simple bed wishing her to live to the grand old age of 100.