The Great Ocean Road (Oct 17 - 18)

Driving again, but this time on The Great Ocean Road... Great is an understatement!!!

But first let me explain our error... a four day error. We had managed to get all the way to the airport when we decided to review our paper work. The date on our complete itinerary is the 17th, but our flight to New Zealand was suppose to be the 21st... um oops! It was not even nine o'clock in the morning. Thankfully the attendant took pity on us and was able to move us the one on Sunday the 19th in two days time. We had already given our hippie back the previous day. Not to worry though. An English post woman we had previously met said her favourite part of Australia was the Great Ocean Road, so we hired a car and set off driving to Torquay, the beginning of the famous road (not the only English named town here...). We moved from the M1 to the A1 ( Princess Coast highway) to Surf Coast High way in time for brunch in a cute town where we burnt our photos to DVD and picked up a map. Our map being previously posted back including our Australia travel bible. After being inland, popping out in Torquay was a big bright blue surprise.

The ocean road is a weaving and winding road that went up and down, along the hills, by the side of cliffs. We drove a little and stopped, drove a little and stopped, each time being accosted by flies. The view along the cliffs where a beautiful colour palate in every direction. There were so many tantalising greens, white, blues with golden sands. Tyler's temp rose as the flies had won the hour, but we quickly learned that the flies where bugging every one, with a few swats here and a discreet slap there. So we took pleasure in fly swatting. These flies seemed to like eyeballs, very friendly flies.

After a few too many stops with no food, we arrived in Apollo Bay. Another glorious little town over looking a grass bank onto the hidden sea beyond. The flies had gone, but Tyler had a bee in his bonnet. He wanted to see the Twelve Apostles, and I wanted to eat. The sun was soon to go down though, so in true British form, I picked up a bag of fish and chips and we munched them while Tyler guided our little rental car around all the winding corners that this road had to offer. Tasty! (Fyi, this was our first true bag in the whole time.. i think??). There were a few lookouts left on the way, including driving though a forest, farm land then back to rolling cliffs. At the Gibson Steps lookout, even though these where closed, we were delighted to see our first apostle. A very big slab of sand stone in the middle of the sea. Very nice to meet you too Mr. Apostle!

We were off to the visitors center up the road, a fancy, sustainable building with a water recycling and a wetland. A short walk away from the Twelve Apostle. There seems to be a debate as to how many apostles there actually are. One sign stated you couldn't see all twelve apostles from the viewing area, while other literature we've read says that as many as five were eroded. We've also heard that there were never twelve, but the name was selected for marketing purposes. Regardless, it is a wonderous sight.

We read the sunset was the best time to visit, and we arrived with half an hour to spare. Not quite though as the paper we were using had forgot to factor daylight savings time into the sunset time, so we had an hour and half spare. Not to worry the bird life was plentiful, and the scenic heather land was beautiful. Even the monster size ants were fun to look at. The glorious sun descended into the the sea without so much as a pretty look. Bollocks but wait the horizon began to light up clouds and the colours brought the previously sleepy apostles to life. Such a glorious sight! The violet hours rules! Happy with Tyler's mistake ;-), we headed to Port Campbell to find somewhere to rest our heads. Luckily we found a near empty hostel and food within walking distance where we had our first Kangaroo meat - strange duck/game taste.

Tyler read whilst I took a early morning jog around the coastline where I came across a sunning sea lion. Nice! Back to Melbourne we had to go, but we had read about a few walks which tickled our interest. Were we in for a treat! The great road had not finished with us yet. Pictures will do better that I can explain, but to give you an idea...the waves on the coast are so powerful that water splashes against the soft cliffs creating a network of underground caves. The inlets are inviting but treacherous as death comes quickly for anyone marooned along the coast (as we read in accounts of old shipwrecks). The waves continue the erosion process and arches and holes are created, accessssable by the birds. This results in unstable ground, and eventually, when the arches collapse, a lone rock, or Apostle, is left. The trails run through heather so high that one move off the path and you are completely lost. There are also hidden rivers and wetlands leading to secluded beaches where steps aid the descendant. Crystal clear water so refreshing but bloody freezing to touch (our picture getting wet was not intentional). The weather fooled us with a 30-40 degree change from morning to evening. We got scorched as our little walked turned into hours of discovery and fun. We left in time to go back to Apollo Bay for a late lunch which at 3 o'clock is dead time. Nothing is open except the famous fish and chips, so we hung out awhile for dinner. I lazed on the grass and Tyler in a cafe. Later, over a beer, we reviewed our time in Oz. This time we really would be leaving, but what a fantastic mistake. Best one Yet!